Chapter 18: Three-Piece Jacket with Shawl Collar and Yoke Sleeves Pattern and Digital Toile Check

In this article, we will show you how to add width to the blouse sloper from our previous article to create a jacket sloper. We will walk you through the process of adding a shawl collar and yoke sleeves to create a three-piece jacket pattern and perform a digital toile check. Let's get started.

Chapter 18: Three-Piece Jacket with Shawl Collar and Yoke Sleeves Pattern and Digital Toile Check

1. Create the Jacket Sloper from the Blouse Sloper

Figure 1: Lower the back and front neck point by 3 mm and the side neck point by 5 mm to create the jacket neckline.

Figure 2: Draw expansion lines (Lines 1-11) and open them in parallel according to the values in the spread-width table, adding 40 mm total width across the bodice for wearing ease.

2. Perform a Toile Check on the Jacket Sloper

Figure 3: ①Check the points where width was added.
②Check the lowered jacket neckline.
③Check the added width across the bodice from the front and back views, as well as the sleeve alignment angle and overall fit. Check the sleeve swing angle from the side (perform a visual check with the body form set to 60% opacity so it is see-through).

3. Separate the Bodice into 3 Panels

Figure 4: ①Raise the sloper waist darts by 35 mm, and move the back dart by 50 mm, the front auxiliary dart by 45 mm and the front dart by 15 mm toward the side (red line darts).
②Raise the waistline on the side lines and center front and center back lines by 35 mm.
③Place the front and back bodice pieces 15 mm apart. Define the center line between them as the side line (green line). Distribute the back side dart intake so that 2/3 goes to the center back and 1/3 goes to the back panel dart as shown. Allocate half of the front side dart intake to the front panel dart. Draw the back panel line and the front panel line for the three-piece division. Redraw the center back line.

4. Align the Bodice Armhole Line and Sleeve Cap Line (Sleeve Grainline)

Figure 5: ①Add 7.5 mm to both sides of the sleeve and adjust to align with the armhole line.
②Fold the sleeve along the front and back silhouette lines, and check that the sleeve grainline and armhole line are aligned.
③Check the alignment of the front and back side armhole lines.
④Clean up the bodice and sleeve pattern.
⑤Perform a toile check on the three-piece bodice. Check panel lines for fit and appearance.

5. Adjust Bodice Darts and Sleeves

Figure 6: ①Using the red dots as the pivot point, distribute the following along the expansion lines near the shoulder line: 5 mm for shoulder pad thickness, 3 mm at the back neckline, 5 mm at the 4th notch, 10 mm at the front neckline, and 10 mm at the 2nd notch. Close the front shoulder dart and transfer to the waist dart.
②Perform a toile check on the three-piece bodice to confirm fit and appearance.

6. Correct the Sleeve Grainline and Create a Two-Piece Sleeve

Figure 7: ①Move the front and back silhouette lines of the sleeve sloper 20 mm forward, then fold to create the new sleeve grainline (red line.)
②From the midpoint of the 125 mm sleeve hem line, draw a perpendicular line to the sleeve cap notch. This will be your sleeve center line.
③Draw parallel lines 20 mm to both sides of the front silhouette line and 15 mm to both sides of the back silhouette line. Divide the sleeve into the under sleeve and outer sleeve and separate the pieces.
④Perform a toile check to confirm the forward sleeve rotation and position of the two-piece sleeve.

7. Create the Yoke Sleeves

Figure 8: Move the shoulder line toward the front shoulder.

Figure 9: ①Separate the yoke pieces (red line) from the front and back bodice, then join them with the sleeve cap line by aligning the fourth notch with the ● dot and the second notch with the 〇 dot.
②Perform a toile check to confirm the fit and appearance of the yoke sleeve.

8. Create the Shawl Collar

Figure 10: Prepare the front and back bodice pieces before separating the yoke. Lower the side neck point by an additional 10 mm.

Figure 11: ①Align the front and back bodice pieces at the shoulder line. From a point 25 mm below the front neckline, draw a 25 mm line parallel to the shoulder line (point ⓐ). Connect point ⓐ with the intersection of the waistline and the 20 mm extension line (point ⓑ) to form the fold line. Sketch the shawl collar (red line) and draw the front neckline (red line).
②Use the fold line as the axis to mirror the front neckline. Draw arcs using the collar attachment ⓒ and the outer collar edge line ⓓ measurements. Draw the center back line of the collar tangent to these arcs.
③Connect the collar with the front bodice to form a continuous collar (collar stand height 30 mm, upper collar width 40 mm).

9. Complete the Front Line and Create the Flap and Buttons

Figure 12: ①Starting at the end of the fold at point ⓑ draw the front edge line to the side seam and hemline, then attach a 23 mm button.
②Create a 130 mm x 40 mm flap and, using the red dots as the pivot point, open the edges outward by 1 mm increments.

Figure 13: Attach four 20 mm buttons to the outer sleeve.

10. Use the Digital Body Form Arm and Check the Toile

Figure 14: ①From the 3D Menu, select [PM Preform] and set arm position to [Arms Down B] and run the simulation.
②Stop the simulation, remove the arm from the body form and check the toile.

11. Completed Design Pattern

Figure 15: Completed Pattern for the Three-Piece Jacket with Shawl Collar and Yoke Sleeves & Gathered Skirt with Darts

12. Combine with a Gathered Skirt with Darts and Perform a Toile Check