Chapter 7: Skirt Pattern Development and Digital Toile Check

This time, we will use a skirt sloper created through draping on a body to explain the pattern making of a high-waist tight skirt and its digital toile check. Let's get started.

1. Adjusting the Width of the Skirt Sloper

The skirt sloper created through draping will not fit as it is on a body perfectly. We need to add the necessary "ease" for ready-to-wear patterns. This adjustment is called "width adjustment." Add 30mm width at the waist and 40mm width at the hip.

Figure 1: Use the skirt sloper before width adjustment and perform a digital toile check with ACS_Ladies (skirt) body.
The skirt length (420mm) is set to match the body length.

Figure 2: Prepare a skirt sloper with the skirt length adjusted to 550mm and draw the expansion lines at the indicated positions.
Use the [Cutting Expansion] menu to open lines ⑴ to ⑹ by the table values.
(The overall hip width is 40mm, and the waist width is adjusted with a 30mm width adjustment dart opening.)

Figure 3: Perform a digital toile check on the adjusted sloper.

Figure 4: Use the [Belt] menu to create a 30mm wide belt with a back opening.
The finished dimensions are hip 940mm and waist 630mm.
Try a digital toile check.

2. Developing the High-Waist Skirt from the Skirt Sloper

Using the "Basic Dress Sloper" upper body and "Skirt Sloper," we will explain points of skirt pattern creation, such as combining two darts into one, integrating upper and lower parts, and expanding tucks.

(1) First Point of Pattern Adjustment
Combine front and back waist darts into one and add ease to the waist width.

Figure 5: Prepare the adjusted "upper body" and "skirt" slopers (both with a waist finished size of 630mm).
Perform a digital toile check with the ACS_Ladies (set-in) body to see that ease is needed at the waist position when combining the upper and lower parts.

Figure 6: Draw the expansion line to move the back skirt waist darts to one line, centered at one-third position.
Draw the expansion line for the front skirt box pleats in a reverse V shape (moving the pleat ends apart) to the center one-third position between waist darts.

Figure 7: Use the dart points (red circles) as rotation centers to distribute ease to the waist line and adjust the lines for one dart or box pleat.

(2) Second Point of Pattern Adjustment
Integrate the upper and lower parts of the waist.

Figure 8: Align the high-waist section (taken from a parallel line 60mm from the waist line) with the skirt waist line.
Adjust the overlapping balance by aligning the front and back center lines and overlapping the parts by approximately 4mm in the vertical direction.

Figure 9: Rotate the front skirt tucks to the hemline and open by 15mm each.
Expand the middle hip section to correct the skirt to a peg-top silhouette.

(3) Third Point of Pattern Adjustment
Open the box pleats.

Figure 10: Use the [Tuck Conversion] menu to convert the tuck line and 80mm deep tucks into a tuck line (necessary for digital toile creation).

Figure 11: Add a 30mm width, 200mm opening vent extension to the back and mirror the front to complete the pattern.

3. Perform Digital Toile Check on the Completed Pattern

Figure 12: Perform a digital toile check with the ACS_Ladies (skirt) body. Check the ease at the waist, vent opening, and skirt silhouette.

Figure 13: Perform a digital toile check with the ACS_Ladies (set-in) body to confirm overall body balance.