Chapter 5: Jacket Pattern Development and Digital Toile Check
This time, we will explain the pattern making and digital toile check for the classic 3-piece tailored jacket, a staple in women's ready-to-wear fashion. Let's get started.
1. Development from the Jacket Sloper
An explanation of development from a "highly fitted jacket sloper."
Figure 1: Prepare a jacket sloper (fitted) with one waist dart at the back and two waist darts at the front, including the bodice and sleeve.
Figure 2: Check the silhouette with a digital toile check.
Since this is for a jacket, you can confirm that the neckline has been lowered by 3mm at the front and back center and by 5mm at the side neck.
(1) First Key Point of Pattern Modification
Create balanced panel lines for the 3-piece bodice.
Figure 3: Move the back waist dart, the front waist auxiliary darts, and the front waist dart as shown in the diagram, both vertically and horizontally.
Figure 4: Arrange the front and back bodice 15mm apart at the side seams and use the center line (green line) as the side seam.
Allocate the back center waist dart as ⓐ, the back panel line dart as ⓑ, and the front panel line dart as ⓒ, maintaining the same shaping distribution as the jacket sloper.
Figure 5: Complete the 3-piece division of the bodice and draw the extension lines for the shoulder pad thickness, the manipulation of the front and back shoulder darts, and the flap pocket lines.
(2) Second Key Point of Pattern Modification
Move and distribute the volume of the front and back shoulder darts through pattern manipulation.
Figure 6: For the back bodice, use the shoulder dart point (the red dot on the left side of the illustration) as the center of rotation, and distribute 3mm to the neckline and 5mm to the armhole, with the remaining amount allocated to the shoulder seam ease.
For the front bodice, use the shoulder dart point (the red dot on the right side of the illustration) as the rotation center, and distribute 5mm to both the neckline and armhole. Close the shoulder dart and move the remaining amount to the flap pocket transition line.
Rotate part A around the point where blue dot lies in order to close the waist dart volume and open at the hemline. Add 5mm for the shoulder pad thickness, using the neckline as the rotation center, and open to the armhole accordingly.
Figure 7: Perform a digital toile check of the front and back side panels divided into 3 pieces. Check the shaping at the center of the back.
Figure 8: Check that the toile's side seam aligns with the body's side seam and verify the balance of the waist shaping.
(3) Third Key Point of Pattern Modification
Define the peak lapel and front cut lines, and ensure accurate drafting of the upper collar.
Figure 9: Lower the side neck points of the front and back bodice by 5mm.
Figure 10: Set the collar height of the upper collar to 30mm and the collar flap width to 40–45mm as shown in the diagram. Use the outer edge measurement of the upper collar as ⓐ to ⓑ.
Figure 11: Align the front and back bodice at the shoulder seam.
From the side neck point (SP), mark a position 25mm along the front neckline, and draw a line parallel to the shoulder seam at the collar height minus 5mm (25mm), marking this line as ⓧ.
Draw a straight line from the intersection ⓨ of the waistline and the front center line, located 20mm from the front edge, to mark the lapel roll line.
Sketch the peak lapel design line as shown in the diagram, and draw the finished line of the upper collar from the gorge line of the upper collar. Move the waist dart point 35–40mm below the bust line.
Figure 12: Mirror the lapel roll line along the mirror axis to reverse the lapel. Extend the gorge line and find the intersection with the neckline.
Draw an arc with radius A (red solid line) on the reversed side based on the collar attachment dimension A.
Draw an arc with radius B (red dashed line) centered on the intersection of the upper collar and shoulder seam (C).
Draw auxiliary lines D to F that are tangent to arcs A and B. Find the point where these lines intersect perpendicularly from G.
From this point, mark the collar attachment line angle at 2.5–5mm.
Set the collar height width to 30mm and the flap width to 40–45mm.
Draw the collar attachment line, collar height line, and outer collar line to complete the upper collar.
Figure 13: Round off the front edge line and create a pattern with a single button closure at the waist. Dress the pattern on the body and perform a digital toile check.
(4) Fourth Key Point of Pattern Modification
How to prepare a women's sleeve pattern and modify the sleeve's grainline to a men's type.
Figure 14: Move the front and back silhouette lines of the sleeve pattern 20mm to the right in parallel to create new silhouette lines.
Redraw the new sleeve centerline at the sleeve cap notch position and fold the sleeve along the mirror axis.
The underarm line will be adjusted accordingly.
Figure 15: Align the front and back side bodice pieces to form the armhole, and check the balance of the sleeve cap by matching the underarm seam intersection of the sleeve with the side seam intersection (notch) of the armhole.
Figure 16: From the intersection of the front silhouette line (before modification) and the cuff line, take 125mm to the left, which is half of the cuff width of 250mm.
Connect the midpoint of this line with the sleeve cap notch using a straight line to adjust the sleeve centerline.
Redraw the cuff line perpendicular to the adjusted sleeve centerline.
Create an inward notch of 10mm from the intersection of the elbow line and the front silhouette line (before modification).
Connect this notch to the sleeve edge angle with a straight line and extend it 20mm outward from the intersection with the elbow line.
Redraw the front and back silhouette lines as smooth curves, creating new silhouette lines for the two-piece sleeve.
Figure 17: Draw a line parallel to the front silhouette line, 20mm away, and a line parallel to the back silhouette line, 15mm away, on both sides.
These lines will be used as the seam lines for the inner and outer sleeves.
Figure 18: Erase unnecessary lines and redraw internal lines such as the elbow line.
Organize the pattern and check the matching of the bodice armhole cap and the two-piece sleeve.
Align the armhole cap notches of the side bodice with the notches of the inner sleeve to confirm the sleeve balance.
Figure 19: Remove the inner sleeve from the outer sleeve and reverse it. Attach four buttons to the outer sleeve's opening, completing the two-piece sleeve.
Figure 20: Adjust the bodice armhole and sleeve cap notches to ensure the appropriate distribution of the ease.
2. Perform Digital Toile Check for Three-Piece Tailored Jacket
Figure 21: Dress the completed full-body pattern (the square frame shows the half-body) and conduct a digital toile check.
Perform a final check of the peak lapel, the forward pitch and alignment angle of the two-piece sleeves, both welt flap pockets, the high waist shaping, and the cut from the front to the hemline.
Masaharu Sekikawa 2002 - 2017: Principal at the International Total Fashion College Currently retired as principal and serving as a part-time lecturer at the International Total Fashion College, specializing in apparel CAD education. In June 2017, he published a book on digital toile research and simultaneously launched a website. Please see below. |
Academic Presentations |
Delivered a presentation on "Pattern & 3D Simulation Verification of Women's Tailored Jackets Using 3D Toile" at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2016. Delivered a presentation on “Practical Applications of Digital Toile” at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2017. |
Website | http://masa-cad.com/ |
Publications | https://masacad.thebase.in/ |