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Chapter 3: Blouse Pattern Development and Digital Toile Check (Part 2)

2. Shirt Blouse Development

The shirt blouse is a popular staple in women's ready-to-wear fashion. It's a unique piece that combines the functionality of a shirt with a feminine silhouette. Let's delve into the design points of this garment.

(1) Pattern Adjustment Point 1:

Shift the front shoulder to create a shallow sleeve attachment for better arm mobility.

Figure 10: Move the neck point ⓐ of the back shoulder line by 5mm and the shoulder point ⓑ by 5mm (adding the slack and 5mm for front shoulder movement) to draw the front shoulder line.
Move the neck point ⓐ of the front shoulder line by 5mm and the shoulder point ⓑ by 5mm (adding the slack and 5mm for front shoulder movement) to draw the front shoulder line (no apparent movement).

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure10

(2) Pattern Adjustment Point 2:

Explanation of how to draft sleeves with a low sleeve cap from the sleeve's eye.

Figure 11: Lower the front and back armholes by 10 to 20mm.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure11

Figure 12: Verify the attachment of the natural shoulder sleeve.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure12

Figure 13: Draw a horizontal auxiliary line 30mm above the sleeve width line, and draw another horizontal line passing through the intersection point ⓐ of the original sleeve. Draw a rear sleeve cap line 5mm longer than the measurement from the fifth notch to the back of the armhole.
Draw a front sleeve cap line 5mm longer than the measurement from the front of the armhole. Set the sleeve length to 600mm and complete the sleeve cap and underarm.
Draw the elbow line at half the length of the front silhouette line.

Figure 14: Mirror the back silhouette line and flip the back sleeve along the mirroring axis.
Mirror the front silhouette line and flip the front sleeve along the mirroring axis.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure13-14

(3) Pattern Modification Point 3

A method to add forward curvature to the sleeve to better accommodate the shape of the arm, considering that the sleeve pattern is cylindrical.

Figure 15: Fold the pattern along the front and back silhouette lines, then cut 50mm from the sleeve cuff length starting from the sleeve cuff line.

Figure 16: Draw lines perpendicular to the sleeve cuff line and the front and back silhouette lines, each 30mm inside from the intersection point, and connect them with the corner of the sleeve.
Take half of the cuff width dimension, 110mm out of 220mm, as the sleeve cuff line.
Connect the intersection of the elbow line and the auxiliary line with the sleeve cuff line, each 5mm inside from the intersection point, and make them the front and back silhouette lines.

Figure 17: Draw a straight line from the intersection point of the sleeve dart and the sleeve center line to the sleeve cuff line, dividing it equally, and make it the frontward-oriented sleeve center line.
Mirror the upper front and back silhouette lines from the elbow line on the mirroring axis.
Mirror the lower front and back silhouette lines from the elbow line on the mirroring axis. The basic outline of the sleeve pattern is now complete.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure15-17

Figure 18 Organize the sleeve pattern and draw folding lines to create darts from the sleeve cuff line to the elbow line.
Close the elbow darts at the intersection point (marked with a red dot) as the rotation center.
Then use the resulting opening at the sleave cuff as the dart allowance.

Figure 19: Organize the sleeve cuff darts and pattern details such as the visible openings and cuffs.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure18-19

Figure 20: Check for draping under the sleeve on the toile when the sleeve drop is shallow.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure20

Figure 21: Lower the side neck point on the original shoulder line by 5mm ⓐ and the original center neck point by 10mm ⓑ.
The intersection of the lowered neckline line (ⓐ to ⓑ) and the front shoulder line is marked as ⓒ.
Set the front end line to 15mm and mark the intersection as ⓓ.

Figure 22:Take 5mm from the collar band width (20-22mm) perpendicular to the collar attachment line (ⓒ to ⓓ), then mark it as ⓔ.
Complete the collar band line from ⓔ to ⓕ to ⓒ and draw dividing lines to split this line into 4 parts.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure21-22

Figure 23: Draw a rectangle from the back center of the collar line to the front shoulder line ⓒ, then align ⓕ to ⓒ of the collar band to it.
Modify the front end so that it is a curved line.

Figure 24: Open the intersection of the unfolding line and the collar line equally around the rotation center.
Add notches to the side neck point.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure23-24

Figure 25: Sketch the upper collar and draw three unfolding lines.

Figure 26: Open the unfolding lines at the intersection with the collar attachment line by the same amount around the pivot point.s

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure25-26

Figure 27: Perform a toile check for the shirt collar with the collar band.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure27

Figure 28: Set the PM preform for the completed pattern.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure28

Figure 29: Set up the printed fabric and perform a toile check.
This allows you to confirm the forward pitch of the sleeves and the fit at the center of the back.

Chapter3(Part 2)_Figure29

Masaharu Sekikawa

2002 - 2017: Principal at the International Total Fashion College

Currently retired as principal and serving as a part-time lecturer at the International Total Fashion College, specializing in apparel CAD education.

In June 2017, he published a book on digital toile research and simultaneously launched a website. Please see below.

Academic
Presentations

Delivered a presentation on "Pattern & 3D Simulation Verification of Women's Tailored Jackets Using 3D Toile" at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2016.

Delivered a presentation on “Practical Applications of Digital Toile” at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2017.

Website http://masa-cad.com/
Publications https://masacad.thebase.in/