Chapter 3: Blouse Pattern Development and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)
Last time, we discussed shirts with an androgynous style. This time, we'll delve into blouse pattern making that addresses the distinct bust shaping darts found in women's ready-to-wear clothing. We'll explore how to manipulate these darts precisely and conduct digital toile checks on blouse patterns. Let's get started.
1. Development from the Torso Sloper
The modification of the front and back bodice with one waist dart, and the adjustment of the sleeve cap line from the torso sloper will be explained.
Figure 1: Flat pattern of the torso sloper. Waist darts on the front and back bodice, along with dart manipulation on the side seams, are utilized to create the silhouette shape of the waist.
Figure 2: Checking the pattern on a digital figure. Some ease is added to the bust line.
Figure 3: Connect the back bodice shoulder dart point to the fourth notch. Extend the back waist dart point to the hemline.
Figure 4: Connect the bust point to the midpoint of the front neckline and the second notch, respectively. Extend the front waist dart point to the hemline.
Figure 5: Close the shoulder dart at the dart point and open it at the fourth notch. Trim 5mm on each side of the intersection point on the hemline, then parallel shift (→) the corrected left waist dart line 5mm to the right. Organize the pattern to complete the waist dart lines.
Figure 6: Close the shoulder dart at the bust point. Open it 5mm at the collar midpoint and 15-20mm at the second notch. Distribute the remaining amount to the hemline. Shift the right waist dart line 5mm to the left (←), then organize the pattern to complete the waist dart lines.
Adjust the sleeve cap line of the sleeve pattern to match the manipulated front and back armhole lines.
Figure 7: Front and back bodice patterns with waist darts
Figure 8: From the second and fourth notches of the sleeve pattern, draw perpendicular lines to the cuff line, then extend the concave lines from the fourth notch to the second notch. Open each one outward by 5mm along the sleeve cap line. Open the concave lines upward in parallel by 5mm. Redraw and adjust the sleeve cap line.
Figure 9: Confirm the silhouette and sleeve attachment with a toile check.
Masaharu Sekikawa 2002 - 2017: Principal at the International Total Fashion College Currently retired as principal and serving as a part-time lecturer at the International Total Fashion College, specializing in apparel CAD education. In June 2017, he published a book on digital toile research and simultaneously launched a website. Please see below. |
Academic Presentations |
Delivered a presentation on "Pattern & 3D Simulation Verification of Women's Tailored Jackets Using 3D Toile" at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2016. Delivered a presentation on “Practical Applications of Digital Toile” at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2017. |
Website | http://masa-cad.com/ |
Publications | https://masacad.thebase.in/ |