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Chapter 2: Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)

In this session, we will guide you through the pattern making process for a woman’s shirt and eliminate the bust dart using manipulation techniques. We will also explain how to conduct a digital toile check. Let's get started.

1. Development from the Princess Line Sloper

The princess line sloper (hereinafter referred to as princess sloper) is the most fundamental prototype of pattern-making that represents the female body shape. It consists of four pieces: the front, front side, back side, and back.

Figure 1: This is a flat pattern of the princess sloper created by draping on an actual figure. You can see that vertical yellow lines are passing through the front and back side pieces.

Figure 2: A toile check can be conducted using a digital figure. As explained later in Figure 7, we will confirm that there is looseness added to the hip width by draping to compensate for the reduction in the hip line measurement.

Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 1Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 2

To develop a shirt pattern, several adjustments are necessary. The reason for this is that the princess sloper represents the female body shape very accurately. (In contrast, a standard shirt is more androgynous, lacking gender-specific differences.)

1) The First Pattern Adjustment Point

The first pattern adjustment point is at the bust line of the back side piece.

Figure 3: The yellow sightline on the digital figure.

Figure 4: The bust line of the pattern is created by draping on the actual figure, and it has a convex curve.

Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 3Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 4

2) The Second Pattern Adjustment Point

As the pattern transitions to the hip area, the level of difficulty in pattern making increases significantly compared to the waist area. The reason for this becomes clear when comparing the horizontal cross-sections of the figure's bust line and hip line.

Figure 5: The black line represents the bust line, and the red line represents the hip line. This illustrates that the circumference of the hips is the larger of the two.

Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 5

Figure 6: The back and side back pieces are aligned at the point of the red circle, as are the front and side front pieces. The front and back side pieces are arranged so that the yellow sightline is vertical.

Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 6

The hip circumference is larger than that of the bust, so overlapping areas A and B are created at the hip line in Figure 6. As a result, a corrected pattern consisting of two front and back pieces is created.

Figure 7: This is the front and back pattern after adjustments. For the front and back side pieces, rotate parts C and D around the first and third notches until the underarm reaches the bust’s horizontal guideline. Then draw a perpendicular line from the intersection with the horizontal guideline to establish the side seam. Reflecting the waist dart position, the pattern is organized with one front and back waist dart each. The waist dart amount at the side can also be determined.

Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 7

Figure 8: Digital toile checking confirms that the hip line of the toile drops 10mm (about 0.39 in) because the waist is not cinched.

Chapter 2 Shirt Pattern Drafting and Digital Toile Check (Part 1)_Figure 8

This concludes Part One. Please continue reading in Part Two.

Masaharu Sekikawa

2002 - 2017: Principal at the International Total Fashion College

Currently retired as principal and serving as a part-time lecturer at the International Total Fashion College, specializing in apparel CAD education.

In June 2017, he published a book on digital toile research and simultaneously launched a website. Please see below.

Academic
Presentations

Delivered a presentation on "Pattern & 3D Simulation Verification of Women's Tailored Jackets Using 3D Toile" at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2016.

Delivered a presentation on “Practical Applications of Digital Toile” at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2017.

Website http://masa-cad.com/
Publications https://masacad.thebase.in/