Chapter 1: Digital Toile Check of the Basic Sloper
Preface
Pattern making is a skill that requires expertise. Passing on the accumulated hands-on analog experiences to younger generations has become a significant challenge.
Therefore, I have found promise in digital toile.
Digital toile is a remarkable tool that allows you to fit the patterns made in CAD onto a three-dimensional body for pattern checking on the same PC screen, enabling instant reflection of corrections on flat patterns.
So I decided to see if I could incorporate the pattern-making expertise accumulated over many years in the apparel industry into digital toile.
“Can you truly replicate the silhouette and details of clothing on the computer screen?" "I want to know how far the simulation is possible with PATTERN MAGICⅡ3D."
With such thoughts in mind, I created a webpage called “Masa’s CAD Digital Toile Research Lab" and have been conducting practical research focused on digital toile. This column summarizes that research.
By digitizing the toile check process that was previously done manually, we made some new discoveries. For example, the saving feature inherent in computers proved to be quite valuable. When needed, we could easily load the desired digital toile from the extensive pattern database on the PC, check it in 3D, and then proceed with flat pattern adjustments.
This convinced us that digital toile is an ideal tool for learning the fundamentals of pattern making and for passing on technical skills to younger generations.
I hope this column proves useful to you in some way. Additionally, for those who wish to delve deeper into the technical knowledge of “digital toile”, I recommend reading the PDF book “Masa’s CAD Digital Toile Skills Development Course" for further details.
Author: Masaharu Sekikawa
Title: Flat Pattern Making and Digital Toile Check
Let's start by categorizing women's ready-to-wear items into three groups: tops, bottoms, and dresses. We will provide an overview of the pattern making process for each sloper and discuss the pattern making as well as digital toile check. Let's begin.
Chapter 1: Digital Toile Check of the Basic Sloper
1. Manipulation of Front Bodice
Without altering the silhouette of the front bodice, darts can be moved, or ease dispersed in any direction, 360 degrees around the bust point. Let's explore whether the principles and rules of this manipulation can be achieved digitally! The following explanation will detail this process.
[Figure 1] Dispersion of 10mm ease along the neckline.
From the bust point ⓐ, draw a straight line to the midpoint of the neckline ⓑ. Rotate part ㋑ counterclockwise by 10mm using ⓐ as a base point. Connect the neckline to form one continuous line.
2. Simulation with PATTERN MAGICⅡ & 3D
Segment the front and back bodice, as well as the sleeves, from the patterned basic sloper into separate parts. Perform digital toile checks using Toray’s ACS_ female dress form (with set-in sleeves).
[Figure 2] In the Line Information settings, confirm the stitching lines. Specify easing on the sleeve cap line.
[Figure 3] In the Arrangement settings, position the parts on the body. Arrange the front and back bodice along the bust line, then manually position the sleeves on the body.
[Figure 4] In PM Preform, set the line fixation and point fixation for sewing. Stop sewing once the sleeve's setting angle is determined.
[Figure 5] Set the Color Toile. The color of the toile can be chosen from a variety of colors and printed fabrics.
[Figure 6] Check the toile from all directions, 360 degrees.
[Figure 7] Digital toile check with 10mm ease dispersed along the neckline. The right frame is an enlarged view. You can see that there is a slack between the fold lines of the front neckline.
[Figure 8] You can see that the bust lines of the body and digital toile are aligned (highlighted in red). This principle is crucial when creating a basic sloper from a fitted sloper.
3. Relationship between Armhole and Sleeve Attachment
The key point of sleeve attachment is to draw it in a balanced manner, aiming for a straight line connecting the notches of the front and back of the armhole to intersect perpendicularly with the sleeve center line.
[Figure 9] This shows a straight line connecting the first and the third notches which serve as pivot points, and how the shape of the arm hole is traced along the sleeve cap.
[Figure 10] This diagram shows where the straight line ⓧ, connecting the first and third notches as seen from the right side of the body, intersects perpendicularly with the sleeve center line ⓨ.
[Figure 11] The sleeve is attached in the digital toile. You can see that the sleeve center line (dotted line) ⓨ is perpendicular to the straight line ⓧ connecting the front and back notches, as shown in the diagram.
4. Digital Toile Check for Sleeve Attachment
When checking the sleeve attachment, focus on three key points: the sleeve's swing, fit, and proper distribution of sleeve cap ease.
[Figure 12] Sleeve swing refers to the angle (α) formed between the perpendicular line (red line) dropped from the base point ⓐ of the sleeve center line and the center line of the sewn sleeve toile, when viewed from the side.
Small Sleeve swing < α < Large sleeve swing
[Figure 13] Sleeve fit refers to the angle (β) formed between the perpendicular line (red line) dropped from point SP ㋺ and the center line of the sleeve toile, when viewed from the front.
Deep sleeve fit < β< Shallow sleeve fit
[Figure 14] Manage the amount of easing in the sleeve as data.
For the front armhole ⓐ to ⓑ, the distance between ⓐ and the first notch is measured as ▲ dimension. Then the point where the remaining armhole is divided into two equal parts is the second notch.
For the front armhole ⓔ to ⓕ, the distance between ⓔ and the third notch is measured as ● dimension. Then the point where the remaining armhole is divided into two equal parts is the fourth notch.
The position corresponding to the ▲ dimension from the front sleeve cap line ⓒ is the first notch. The position of the second notch is determined by adding 0.3 times the front ease to the △ dimension of the front armhole.
The position corresponding to the ● dimension from the back sleeve cap line ⓖ is the third notch. The position of the fourth notch is determined by adding 0.4 times the back ease to the 〇 dimension of the back armhole.
[Figure 15] This diagram shows how the rounded shape created by the ease in the sleeve cap can be checked using digital toile.
5. Digital Toile Check Using ACS_LadiesHumanBody
Let's try fitting the newly created basic sloper and skirt sloper using the ACS_LadiesHumanBody.
[Figure 16] shows how you can check the silhouette of the basic sloper without sleeves.
[Figure 17] shows how you can check the silhouette with the sleeves.
Masaharu Sekikawa 2002 - 2017: Principal at the International Total Fashion College Currently retired as principal and serving as a part-time lecturer at the International Total Fashion College, specializing in apparel CAD education. In June 2017, he published a book on digital toile research and simultaneously launched a website. Please see below. |
Academic Presentations |
Delivered a presentation on "Pattern & 3D Simulation Verification of Women's Tailored Jackets Using 3D Toile" at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2016. Delivered a presentation on “Practical Applications of Digital Toile” at the National Conference of the Fashion Business Society in 2017. |
Website | http://masa-cad.com/ |
Publications | https://masacad.thebase.in/ |